Their rendezvous'
have played out more like strolls down memory lane than salacious
flings, but they are part of a treasured tradition in this
mountainous corner of northern Vietnam that may challenge some more
linear concepts of love.
"In the past, we
were lovers, but we couldn't get married because we were far
apart," Pao simply as he waited for his date on a dark night in the
village of Khau Vai in Ha Giang province.
Now when they meet,
he said, "we pour our hearts out about the time when we were in
love."
They are not
alone.
For two days each
year, on the 26th and 27th of the third month of the lunar
calendar, the tiny village of Khau Vai, strung along a saddle in
the lush hills near China, is transformed into a "love market."
Hundreds of members
of Giay, Nung, Tay, Dzao, San Chi, Lo Lo and Hmong hill tribes,
among others, trek in from across the mountainous districts nearby
to attend.
Pao's wife was
there, too, meeting her old flame.
Some travel for
days, even from neighboring provinces.
This year, local
artists in colorful clothing performed the local myth telling the
story of the origin of the Khau Vai love market.
Legend has it an
ethnic Giay girl from Ha Giang province fell in love with an ethnic
Nung boy from the neighboring province of Cao Bang.
The girl was so
beautiful that her tribe did not want to let her marry a man from
another tribe and a bloody conflict ensued between the two
tribes.
Watching tragedy
unfold before them, the two lovers sorrowfully decided to part ways
to avoid further bloodshed and to restore peace.
But to keep their love alive they made a secret pact to meet
once a year on the 27th day of the third lunar month in Khau Vai.
Thereafter, the hill village became known as a meeting place for
all of those in love.
These days, the tradition is carried on, albeit with a modern
edge.
Giggling girls in native headdresses make dates by text message
on their cell phones, and hold them up to snap digital photos of
performances.
New roads have made the village that lies some 500 km (310
miles) north of Hanoi more accessible. In the Nung language, Khau
Vai means 'clouds among the mountains'.
"The young generation now go out together, and find each other,
and it is more modern, freer and clearer. Back in the old days, our
grandparents had to pursue love in secret, not like today,"
23-year-old Hua Thi Nghi an ethnic Giay.
Under the dark sky, as other couples cavorted nearby, Pao was
looking forward to seeing his old girlfriend.
"We've arranged to meet and she'll be here a little bit, around
10 pm. We meet together to re-tell the tale of how it was when we
were in love back then," he said.
The next day, however, he said their meeting had been cut short
by a downpour.
But there's always
next year.
(Writing by
John Ruwitch, editing by Miral
Fahmy)