There Really Is a Better Mousetrap
Michael Bohdan
The Pest Shop
ouse infestations are becoming
increasingly common in American homes as rodent predators,
including owls, hawks, foxes and snakes, lose their habitats
to suburban sprawl. Mouse problems occur in every state and
during every season, though new infestations are particularly
likely in the fall, when the onset of cold weather encourages
rodents to head indoors.
Home owners usually can eliminate all but the most serious mouse
infestations without the help of a professional exterminator.
Options for mouse control
Snap traps. Old-fashioned but improved
spring-loaded mousetraps are among the most effective mouse-control
options. The best of these is the Snap-E Mousetrap by Kness
Manufacturing (641-932-7846, www.kness.com, $16.50 for six).
Its smart design increases the kill rate... makes accidental
finger snaps less likely -- and allows you to remove dead mice
without touching them.
A dab of peanut butter makes an effective mousetrap bait.
Even better: Put a pecan sliver in the
peanut butter, then add two drops of vanilla extract. Small pieces
of greasy cooked bacon also work. Cheese is less effective.
Place snap traps wherever you find mouse droppings or mouse
holes. (Wear rubber gloves, and use moist paper towels to clean up
the droppings.) Mice like to travel along edges, so position the
baited ends of snap traps up against walls. Set at least six to 12
traps.
Cage traps. Cage traps capture mice
without harming them. They are appropriate for people who prefer
not to kill animals, and they can be quite effective. Use the same
bait as used in snap traps. Safeguard Multi-Catch Mouse Trap
(800-433-1819,www.safeguardproducts.com, usually
$10 to $15) and Victor’s Tin Cat Repeating Live Catch Mouse Trap
(800-800-1819, www.victorpest.com, $15.23) are
among the best. Ask your local animal control office where to
dispose of mice.
Poisons. Rodenticides are a commonly
used option, but they are not necessarily the best unless you don’t
want to check traps or you have more than a few dozen mice. Pets or
small children might eat the poison... or poisoned mice might die
in your walls or attic, infusing your home with their smell.
If you do use poison, those that come in grain form are more
effective than the wax-impregnated blocks. Put the poison in
tamper-resistant bait stations, and place these wherever you find
mouse droppings.
Look for Bell brand stations at pest-control supply stores, and
expect to use four to six. Price: $3 to $6 each.
Glue boards. A glue board uses adhesive to
trap mice. These are no more effective than snap traps or cage
traps and are unnecessarily inhumane, because captured mice slowly
die of starvation or thirst.
Plug Holes
To keep your home mouse-free, plug holes. Typical points of
entry include small gaps where pipes or vents pass through walls...
the vents themselves... foundation cracks... and under doors. A
mouse can squeeze through a hole the size of a dime.
Easy plug for some
holes: A
copper mesh product called Stuf-Fit Copper
Wool.Price: $16 for a 20-foot roll
at pest-control supply stores. Keep your garage doors shut as
much as possible, and block any gaps around the edges of
these doors with rubber strips. Rodents can cause thousands
of dollars in damage by gnawing through a car’s wiring.
Not worth the money
Red fox urine, peppermint oil and other bottled scents sold as
rodent deterrents are not very effective. "Sonic" mouse deterrents
that claim to drive rodents away with a high-pitched noise also are
virtually worthless.